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| Spider mites on a lemon plant. Photo credit: Paramecium |
The woman I talked to at my favorite nursery told me that spider mites often get out of control when the temperature increases suddenly without any rainfall. They thrive in warm temperatures and low humidity (according to Wikipedia about 80F is their favorite).
It's also important to know that the web they cover the plant in isn't just a byproduct or an unfortunate accident. It's an important part of their life, as it serves to protect the otherwise tiny and defenseless buggers from predators. So your primary goals should be to lower the temperature, increase the moisture and wreck their webs so they're defenseless against predators.
Remove the large colonies
Your first step is to cut off any large colonies you can find. They should be easy to spot, and will often be under leaves. If the plant is established and can take it, it's easiest and most effective to just cut off the leaves with the worst infestations. Put them in a plastic bag and throw them away. You don't want the wee creatures wandering off and infesting somewhere else close to wherever you put the cut leaves.
Destroy the webs
Now it's time to get out a hose and just spray the whole plant down. Be thorough and aggressive. Your goal is not primarily to wash off the mites (although that will certainly happen). Your goal is to ruin and remove their webs, exposing the mites to natural predators and undoing all the work they have done to create a safe, hospitable environment for themselves.
Wetting the leaves has the added benefit of creating droplets of water, which attract ladybugs. It's a surprisingly little known fact that ladybugs are fearsome predators in the tiny insect world. If you're a gardener they are your best friend, because they don't do any harm to plants, but will eat just about any small pest that might try to move in -- and they're pretty too.
Chemical control
We were lucky enough to have them only on large, well established and hardy plants. Our Hollyhocks' roots might be older than I am, and they can take some abuse. If you've got bad mites on a smaller, more delicate plant you may want to use an insecticide of some kind. I haven't ever really needed an insecticide for our garden (knock on wood), but just in case I ever do I've got this one bookmarked on Amazon: Safer Brand 5110 Insect Killing Soap
I don't recommend a toxic modern chemical insecticide. Spider mites are hardy things that evolve very fast. They are known to develop resistance to insecticides as quickly as in a single season, so such measures are at best a temporary solution. At worst, toxic insecticides also kill predators like ladybugs, whose populations take much longer to bounce back. In the absence of predators, expect to need a lot more insecticide later. If you kill everything the populations of mites and aphids will soon explode, unchecked by natural predation.
Remember: your goal is not to utterly destroy them with a chemical scorched earth attack. Your goal is just to weaken them with something relatively harmless, then let the natural ecosystem of predator and prey balance itself back out.







